CLICK ON THE TEXT TO EXPAND THE ANSWER
Can Rabbits and Guinea Pigs Live Together?
The answer to this is NO.
Its not recommended as the guinea pig could get hurt/killed when the rabbit is moving about the hutch/run. It is also known that guinea pigs will pull the fur out of the rabbit, I was given a rabbit to re-home due to this, it took about 6 weeks for the fur to grow back.
What Do I Need For My Rabbit?
1 Water Bottle (take a look at EZI-FILLA, on links page, they are not cheap but are so much easier to clean and less likely to leak).
1 Food Bowl china is best as the rabbits cannot tip the food bowl over
Food I recommend pellets, this it to prevent rabbits becoming selective eaters, which in turn can cause nutritional problems.
1 Hutch that is a suitable size for the breed of rabbit. I would advise nothing smaller than a 4ft hutch for a dwarf/mini-lop rabbit. I always say bigger the better. I recommend riverside hutches (look on links page).
Hutch position should be taken into consideration, out of direct sunlight/wind. You will need to cover it up in winter if its not moved into a shed/garage with either a peice of carpet or tarpaulin, making sure the air can still circulate but preventing the wind/rain getting into the hutch. There are now covers you can buy to do this, try having a look in a good pet shop or even try ebay. If placing a hutch inside a shed you will need to make sure that during the summer time it has good air circulation to prevent the rabbit getting too hot, I tend to put a fan on during the summer months in the day time, I have even cut my main door in half making a stable door to leave the top part open, any windows you have should be left open also. If you are going to have a rabbit indoors then you will need to make sure the area you want the rabbit to live in is rabbit proof, after all they can chew through cables etc.
Bedding Hay which is over 6 months of age if buying a bale and sawdust which has low dust content. I don’t use straw for bedding because it goes soggy, I use hay for this which the rabbits also eat.
Toys these can be shop bought or even home made like the inners of kitchen towel etc.
What Sex Of Rabbit Is Best?
I feel this is a decision only you can decide, all rabbits are different after all, some say that bucks are better as they are easily trained but some will say different. I have a doe rabbit who toilet trained herself when she was a baby.
2 BUCK'S are more likely to fight if they have not been neutered, but this isn't always the case. I have in the past sold 2 bucks together and they were later nuetered.
2 DOE'S, I sell alot of pairs like this, there is less of a chance of a pair of baby doe's fighting then the bucks. I can mix litters and so far I have had no problems doing this. I have 2 doe's living together without any problems.
1 OF EACH SEX is recommended, but you will need to get the buck neutered to stop the doe having a litter as a brother & sister shouldn't mate togather. Its much cheaper to get the buck neutered than the doe.
Breeding my rabbit
The first litter of a young doe has to be before they are 1 year old (ideally between 8 and 12 months). After the doe is one year the pubic bone fuses which can lead to a difficult birth, which could cause a baby getting stuck in the birth canal needing a c-section, you could loose mum & babys. I wouldn't advise breeding after the doe is 1 year old for the first litter.
It is known for mum to breed with son and dad to be bred with daughter, but it is not for brother and sister.
Vaccinations
Rabbits can be vaccinated against myxomatosis, and haemorrhagic viral disease (also known as viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD). These vaccines are administered twice yearly in some areas!
MYXOMATOSIS
An important viral disease of rabbits which is spread by insects and fleas. A vaccination is available to prevent this disease.
Signs In the acute form the rabbit develops swellings around the eyelids, the base of the ears and the genitals. As the disease progresses the rabbit stops eating. Secondary infection with the bacterium pasteurella causes pheumonia and conjunctivitis with thick white discharge from the eyes, and generally fatal. There are rarer chronic form of myxomatosis . The rabbit develops nodules on the ears, nose and paws, while remaining well in it’s self. These nodules eventually disappear after a period of time. Cause Myxomatosis is caused by poxvirus. It is spread by biting insects, of which the most common problem in the UK is the flea. The disease is not spread by the contact of one rabbit with another, but needs a flea to travel between the two. The incubation period (time the infection to development of clinical signs) is 5-14 days. Treatment The acute form is generally fatal, it does not respond to treatment, and the kindest option is euthanasia. The chronic form can be supported with antibiotics to prevent secondary infection, most rabbits will recover. Prevention Prevention of disease is the most important form of control. A vaccine is available, and is given to most rabbits annually. However, in high-risk areas, it can be repeated every six months. Pest control is also very important; the hutches can be sprayed with environmental flea spray, and vapona sticky fly strips or similar can be hung in the environment.
VIRAL HAEMORRHAGIC DISEASE (VHD)
VHD is caused by a calici virus, which was first identified in china in 1984, and spread across Europe to reach Britain in 1992. In most cases infection is fatal.
Signs Sudden death, often proceeded by convulsions and nose bleeding. Less acute may be anorexic, breathless and lethargic before they convulse and die. Some cases may just have a period of lethargy and anorexia before they recover. However, recovered rabbits are more prone to develop secondary infections such as “snuffles” and diarrhoea. Cause VHD is caused by calici virus, which once in the body causes haemorrhages in many organs, particularly the lungs and the kidneys. The virus is spread between rabbits via their nasal secretions but can also be spread indirectly via insects, birds, rodents, people and their clothing. The virus may have been brought to Britain via cross- channel traffic. Treatment Positive control measure is vaccination, and a vaccine is available that can be given to rabbits from 10-12 weeks of age and repeated annually. I got the above information on vaccinations from this book:- rabbit lopaedia “a complete guide to rabbit care”. I have found this book very useful and I always refer to it when needed.
Ailments and Parasites
Coccidioisis
A microscopic, internal parasite is responsible for this common, but very serious disease of the liver. The organism is present in the faecal pellets. This can be transmitted from one rabbit to another, particularly from doe to her kittens in a dirty hutch! Systems of coccidiosis are yellow jaundiced look, persistence diarrhoea and extreme weakness. Without treatment the rabbit becomes emaciated, yet develops a pot belly appearance due to the enlargement of the liver. Death is due to exhaustion. It’s necessary to isolate a suspected case of coccidiosis, and seek veterinary help immediately. Drugs can effectively control the disease if it is diagnosed and treated professionally without delay!
Constipation and diarrhoea
Constipation maybe a simple dietary disorder, cured by feeding more greenstuffs: diarrhoea maybe cured by with holding greens for 24 hours and feeding only hay and water. When persistent, or when combined with other systems both conditions may indicate a more serious illness needing veterinary diagnosis!
Fleas
Rabbits which seem to display systems of discomfort and irritation that make them scratch, maybe infested with fleas. These tend to cluster around the head, and particularly the neck. Where dark spots of their excreta maybe noticed. Fleas can be destroyed by the application of an insecticide powder sold by chemists for this purpose. Fleas reproduce by laying eggs in the host animal’s bedding, or on the floor. It is therefore impossible to eradicate them without burning every last straw of the bedding and the floor litter, scrubbing out the hutch and grazing ark thoroughly sluicing down all other areas in use. Any crack can harbour the eggs, and in a few days- two to twelve in summer, longer in winter- the larvae will emerge and the life cycle begins again! The rabbit flea has achieved some notoriety over the last thirty or so years as carrier of the virus that causes MYXOMATOSIS. During an outbreak the great majority of tame rabbits are safe. Veterinary advice should be taken about felt to be risk on account of the proximity of wild rabbits. An injection of vaccine will give immunity within three days and last approximately 1 year. (I have found a great product that catches and kills the fleas without any chemicals or sprays. It’s called GOTCHA FLEA KILLER. It’s a device that has a sticky pad and over it there is a light. The fleas are attracted to the light and then they get trapped in the sticky pad! I got this from e-bay or try this web site for more info:- www.stvpestcontrol.com ).
Fly strike
A major summer problem for long – haired rabbits is the “strike fly” which lays its eggs in the faeces-soiled fur. Within 12 to 24 hours the maggots hatch out and bore into the host’s flesh, ultimately killing the rabbit. Prevention is essential, so the rabbit should be checked daily to ensure the area under its tail is clean. Hutches should be cleaned out every day and fresh bedding provided.
Lice
Discomfort and scratching as with fleas, can be caused by an infestation of lice. Unlike fleas, lice lay their eggs – known as nits- in the fur of the animal’s host. The eggs are white and secured to the fur by natural adhesive. They show up particularly will on dark-coated rabbits, but will be noticed on any fur during grooming. Lice can be destroyed by specially prepared insecticide power supplied by a chemist or veterinary surgeon. It is effective, how ever, only within the makers instructions are followed exactly. Several applications are necessary to eliminate the succeeding generations of lice emerging from the nits.
Mites
Rabbits are frequently troubled by several different mites. The ear mite can cause a condition generally known as ear mange or ear canker. Any rabbit showing symptoms or irritation and distress that make it scratch the eras and shake the head, or those with a powdery brown matter in the eras needs prompt veterinary treatment. Forage and harvest mites also attack rabbits. They burrow into the skin and set up an area of intense irritation that the rabbit will scratch until it is raw. This condition, usually known as manage must also receive veterinary treatment.
Pneumonia
A rabbit huddled in a corner with laboured breathing, loss of appetite, a dull coat, and often discharge from its nose probably has pneumonia. The rabbit should be immediately seen by the vet. Pneumonia is often caused by damp hutch bedding.
Snuffles
A respiratory tract condition, similar to the common cold in man, is known throughout the rabbit world as snuffles. This is highly infectious disease, and the danger is that is may lead to pneumonia. Rabbits sneezing and with a discharge coming from the nose should be isolated well away from other rabbits and veterinary help sought.
Ticks
Sometimes ticks attach themselves to rabbits and feed on their blood for several days. Once fully engorged the ticks will drop of naturally, but they cannot be pulled off whole still alive. The head remains firmly in the position. They can be killed by cutting off their air supply with a smear of Vaseline, fat or butter. Afterwards it is possible to pull them away cleanly using a pair of tweezers.
First aid
It is always advisable to isolate a sick rabbit, and to take prompt veterinary advice. Rabbits have poor recuperative powers, and immediate veterinary attention is imperative if they are to recover. Time should not be wasted attempting home cures or using patent remedies, before seeking veterinary help. As a general rule, the rabbit should be kept warm and given water to stop it dehydrating (a dropper is useful for this).
Accidents
The rabbit should be picked up carefully in the usual way (wrapped in an old towel if it likely to struggle), and taken to immediately to the vet. A cat basket makes an ideal rabbit carrier, or at a pinch a strong grocery box pierced with air holes, and secured with a lid or string.
Heatstroke Rabbits can suffer quite easily from heat stroke if confined to small, badly ventilated and un shaded hutches in very hot weather. The rabbit should be put immediately in a cool, shady place and given plenty of water to drink, as well as hay and good green food. The fur over the shoulders should be moistened with a damp cloth.
Wounds
Wounds are usually inflicted as a result of two rabbits fighting. The combatants should be given separate quarters and the wounds bathed with a mild saline solution. Serious wounds needs veterinary attention, for it such a wound is not well cleaned an abscess may result.
Overgrown claws
Owners often wisely let a vet or an experienced rabbit keeper clip their rabbit’s claws the first time, but it is not difficult. With a pair of animal nail clippers from a pet shop. The claw should be cut across, taking care not to cut into the blood nerve supply. In a pale coloured rabbit this can be seen by holding the paw to the light. With a dark coloured rabbit a cautious cut should take off only a small amount of claw.
Overgrown teeth
A rabbit’s front teeth continue to grow and need wearing down on hard food and gnawing block, preferably a newly cut log with bark left on. Otherwise the teeth may grow so long as to level the jaws slowly apart or lock into the opposite jaw. Stems of kale and brussels sprouts, as well as root vegetables are good hard food.
When you are away
Either the rabbit should be boarded out with a pet shop, vet or other suitable and knowledgeable person, or someone must come in twice a day to give the rabbit food and water, and to shut them up at night. Such a person must be prepared to clean out the hutch if the arrangement last for then a few days. It should go without saying that the rabbit must never be left to its own devices for any length of time, even with adequate supply of food/water.
Reserving, deposits and pickup?
I ask for a deposit of £10 (non-refundable) per rabbit once I have sexed them around 1 month old. The rabbit will be available to be picked up when there around 8 weeks old. On the day of picking up your rabbit you will be given a care pack which includes feeding.housing information etc, also you will have change over food to aid you weaning your rabbit onto the food of your choice to prevent upsetting your rabbits stomach. Please bring a suitable box / carrier to take your bunny home.
I normally let you know about 7 days before when your bunny is ready to leave for their new home. I normally say collection is at a weekend (friday till sunday) but this could also be in the week if agreed. If the bunny is not collected when agreed then i will charge an additional £5 per week for board!
I do have a waiting list for all my rabbits if you would like to be placed on this list please let me know. Once I have some available I will let you know and you can then come handle / choose one.
I do prefer people to come round and choose / handle the rabbit of your choice, but I do realise this is not all ways possible. If this is the case I can still reserve one for you but I will need a cheque to cover the deposit then the remainder in cash on collection. Please note I will only hold a rabbit for 7 days while I’m waiting for a cheque to arrive and clear. When paying by cheque please put your name / address and card details (card number and expirey date) on the back!
Colour Abbreviation's
When looking for a rabbit either on a web site or in a newspaper you will sometimes find abbreviations of rabbits colourings, here are a few examples.
BEW = Blue Eye White
REW = Red Eye White
SPLIT = This is a carrier of the BEW/REW gene.The rabbits I sell I would inform the buyer which gene.
SELF = All one colour
BROKEN = Not a solid colour
I Have A Rabbit Already, Can I Have Another?
Yes you can, but for the short term you will need to have the rabbits live in seperate hutches, they could fight when a new rabbit is put into another rabbits hutch. I would slowly introduce them together in a run and see how they get on, this gives the rabbits space to move out of each others way. If they start cleaning each other this is a good sign, you may also find that they are ok in a run but when placed in a hutch together they may fight. This may settle down after a few days/weeks or it maybe that the rabbit doesn't want any company in its hutch. Some rabbits like their own company and will not tolerate another rabbit in its hutch. Its much better if you have a rabbit already to get the opposite sex and get the male neutered, this way there less likely to fight.
Nuetering and Injections, How much does it cost?
This information was given by my local Veterinary Surgery in May 2011 and this is what they charge for neutering, so it may vary from practice to practice
Neutering
Male Rabbit = £65.79, aged 4 months or when the testicles have dropped
Female Rabbit = £98.14, aged around 6 months
Male Guinea Pig = £57.36, aged between 4 to 5 months and should be a good weight
Female Guinea Pig, Local Vet will not operate on unless its an emergency which would be done by a specialised Vet surgeon
Injections
Myxomatosis (MYXI) = £18.00, aged 6 weeks
Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) = £11.60, aged 5 weeks
Please note that if you are having both injections, there must be a 2 week gap between the two.
This information is for a guideline only, if in doubt, contact your local Veterinary Surgery
